Obviously, from time to time a bird gets sick and must be treated. When we find a sick bird, it is immediately isolated and placed in sick bay. The bird is treated for whatever sickness is diagnosed. Depending on the diagnosis, the bird may or may not be returned to the loft. It is not returned to the loft until it recovers completely.

NOTE: Every time a new bird is added to our loft, that bird is placed in isolation (sick bay) for a minimum of 10 days. This is done 100% of the time. Even a bird that is ours that has been at another loft, and is returned to our loft, goes through the same treatment. At a minimum we treat them with terramycin plus vitamins for 10 days. Additionally, we give them a 100 mg Meditrich (metronidazole) cancer tablet and a Mediworm tablet. Typically, canker and worm medications are not given at the same time. The canker pill is usually given when they arrive. The worm tablet is given about a week later when they have an empty crop.

We have a very simple system

We do not medicate during the breeding season. Typically, except for “The Cure,” no medication is used or required throughout the year. A routine is followed that helps ensure the birds remain healthy. Following are the various supplements and products that are provided:

• Vitamins
• Apple Cider Vinegar
• Grit
• Minerals
• Clean Water
• Clean Feed
• Clean Nest Bowls

Vitamins

We place vitamins in the water twice per week on Monday and Thursday. We use Wins More. It is a good, clean, easily dissolvable, general purpose vitamin. It is our opinion that no other vitamin supplement is required for the breeders or sale birds.

Apple Cider Vinegar

We place apple cider vinegar in the drinking water Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday. We use 1-2 tablespoons per gallon. We do have the water dripping on these days so the vinegar concentration is decreasing throughout the day. The purpose of the vinegar is to help provide a slightly acidic drinking water, which we believe is good for the birds digestive system.

Grit

Grit is provided, free choice, at all times to all birds. (Note: We do remove the grit when giving the “mycin” drugs, i.e., terramycin, aureomycin, etc.) We combine several different grits in order to provide as many mineral and stone options as possible. The grit should be high in calcium, provide a good variety of “stones,” and be clean and dry. We currently combine, in equal parts, the following:

• Heritage Acres Hi-Calcium grit
• Heritage Acres High Performance grit
• Colombine/Versele-Laga Grit + Redstone

Minerals

A mixture of minerals is provided, free choice at all times. We currently use the following:

• Minerals block of various types (Vanhee, Beyers, plus others)
• Colombine – White Pickstone (high in calcium)
• We also like to include APC Biocal (when available)

NOTE: We provide Natural Granulated Floor Dressing (anti-coccidiosis) in a separated pan for the birds to pick in, free choice. This helps satisfy their need to forage for minerals and stones.

Clean Water

Clean water is absolutely critical. We use well water, so we do not have a chlorine problem. We change the water daily, without exception. Our water containers (pans) are made of stainless steel and designed so that as the water drips into the pan continually, it overflows through a downspout. This method both maintains the water level and keeps the water clean as the dust and floating debris is constantly skimmed off the top. When vitamins or medication is added to the water, the water drip is turned off so the vitamin or medication concentration remains constant.

Twice a week, the day following vitamins, each water pan is cleaned with Clorox to ensure unwanted bacteria are eliminated and the water is always as clean as we can provide. After cleaning with Clorox, the pans are rinsed to remove the Clorox residue.

Clean Feed

We make an effort to purchase the best feed available. The feed must be clean and have the right combinations of grains to provide the nutrition required to keep the breeders healthy and to raise healthy babies. For many years we have used Heritage Acres Feed from Canada. The feed they provide has a greater variety of seeds and grains that are not typically available in most other feeds that we have access to. They also carry various individual seeds and grains so that we can choose to add whatever protein, fiber, carbohydrates or fats we think the birds need at different times during the year…or race season.

During the breeding season the birds have access to feed and water 24/7. Both grain and pellets are available free-choice. The lights remain on in the halls all night. The lofts are not bright, but there is enough light for the birds to move about in the loft throughout the night.

When the breeder hens are unmated they are fed breeder mix plus 17-20% barley. Barley is added to help keep weight off the hens and decrease the protein percentage. When paired, all the breeders receive the normal 16% protein breeder mix without barley. When feeding youngsters, the breeders receive the normal 16% protein breeder mix with the frequent addition of some Austrian peas, safflower, hemp & canola to increase the protein and fat.

Clean Nest Bowls

We use plastic nest bowls and place nest felts in the bowls. We prefer the brown/tan nest pads that are ¼ to 3/8” thick. While we do place pine needles in the loft for the birds to use as nest material, using the nest pads makes the pine needles functionally unnecessary. Many of the birds do like to use the pine needles, many do not. For the older birds it provides exercise flying back and forth between the nest and the floor many times to place the pine needles in the nest. Pine needles are acidic and a slightly acidic environment is good for the birds as it helps cut down on parasites and helps prohibit the growth of “bad” bacteria. We change the nest pads as often as necessary to ensure the youngsters have a relatively clean nest.

Fostering Eggs

We foster eggs from most of our breeders (especially the older hens and/or older pairs) so we can get more rounds off the best, proven cocks and save the energy of the older birds. In order to foster the eggs, we must maintain 30-50 pair of foster birds. One polygamous cock requires a minimum of 6-foster pair. Each year we choose 4-cocks that we place on the polygamous system. The polygamous loft is 5’ wide x 5-1/2’ deep x 7’ tall with 3-nest boxes that are 18” wide x 3’ long x 16” tall with feed and water in each one. An opaque plastic sheet covers the front of each nest box, allowing light in, but not allowing the hens to see out. Each cock will have 3-hens at a time. Additionally, we have 24 individual breeding lofts (3’ wide x 5-1/2’ deep x 7’ tall). Eggs are timed so there is almost always a place to transfer breeder eggs to foster birds. It is our preference to foster eggs to pairs that have laid the same day, or a day or two, after the breeding pairs; however, within 3 days either way will work.

All eggs are candled between 6 & 10 days. If eggs are good they are of course allowed to hatch. If they are not good the eggs are either tossed and the hen is allowed to lay again, or the hen is removed and a new hen is introduced to the cock.

Frequency of Allowing the Hens to Lay

We allow our younger hens to lay once a month during the breeding season. The older hens, five years and older, are allowed to lay once every 6-8 weeks during the breeding season. If the older hens are not having any trouble producing perfect eggs, the frequency may be increased. If the hens do not produce essentially perfect eggs, they will not be used a second time during the same season. If the eggs are fertilized but do not hatch, the hens are typically only tried once again.

Every time a hen is separated from her mate, she is given a calcium pill.

For those pairs that raise youngsters, a second nest bowl is given to them after the 1st round has been banded. Typically, the birds that are kept together will lay approximately once a month.

Youngsters

Youngsters are banded 5 – 7 days after hatching. They are weaned when the feathers on their body under their wings are filled in. Weaning usually occurs 21 – 23 days after the youngsters hatch. When they are weaned, each youngster will be given a 100 mg Meditrich (metronidazole) canker tablet, receive a PMV shot, and be sprayed for parasites using a solution of PermectrinTM and water. 100% of all youngsters are treated the same way. However, if we are certain a bird will be shipped to a one loft race, we will not give a PMV shot to that specific bird. All one loft races we participate in will vaccinate for PMV as soon as the birds arrive at the loft. One loft race birds are shipped after we are sure they are eating and drinking well. Usually that will be about a week after weaning.

First, I must point out that this treatment method is simply based on our opinion and experience. It may not be for you. It is not “vet approved.” It is simply what we do at Double T Lofts and it seems to work for us.

We are of the opinion that the birds must be in pristine health to produce championship-quality youngsters. We think this is especially true of the hens. It is the hen that must be able to supply sufficient nutrients for the fertilized egg to develop properly and ultimately hatch. Since we foster many of the eggs from the “better” and/or older pairs, the older birds are usually spared the duty of feeding youngsters. So, the ultimate goal of “The Cure” is to ensure super health that will result in quality, fertilized eggs that will hatch and produce pristine, championship-quality youngsters.

We will only breed from a hen that is in perfect health. This will include excellent feather quality over the entire body, bright white wattle, bright eyes, normal level of energy and good body weight. If they fail to meet these simple qualifications, they are not used. The only exception is to use an old hen that is near the end of her breeding life in hopes of raising another youngster or two from which to breed. We will not typically try to fly these youngsters, we are simply trying to “save the genes” in the hope of finding another excellent breeder.

Unless there is an obvious health problem, we typically treat for the following:

1. General Infection(s)
2. Canker
3. Paratyphoid
4. Worms (seldom)
5. Coccidiosis (rarely)

Living in West Texas has health advantages for the birds. The climate is typically very dry. In the summer it is very hot and extremely dry. Our average rainfall is 9 to 11 inches per year. From September 2010 thru September 2011 we received a total of 2 inches – that’s dry. Given this dry climate, coccidiosis is rarely a problem. The breeders are on expanded metal floors, so worms are seldom a problem. This year (October 2011) I did treat for worms with Moxidectin for 1-day. That is all they received. There was no evidence that worms were present, but it had been a couple (or more) years since they had been treated.

TREATMENTS

1. Typically, we start the treatment sequence with 10 days of terramycin and vitamins, which is the old “terramycin egg formula.” I specifically use terramycin, nothing else. The goal is to deal with intestinal and ovarian tract infections in the hens and as an overall general antibiotic for the minor infections that might be present in any of the breeders. Grit is removed while they are on terramycin. We do not remove grit for canker or paratyphoid treatment. Following this treatment they receive 2 days of probiotics to help restore the good bacteria. We do not use any of the “fancy” probiotics. We simply use one designed for birds and one that is rather inexpensive.

   NOTE:   We do believe probiotics are beneficial, but we do not place a large emphasis on the use of probiotics as part of our normal day-to-day use of supplements. They are given following any treatment to ensure they have the good bacteria restored. We do not give probiotics on a regular basis.

   We typically wait for about a week before we start we start another medication.

2. The next treatment is for canker. We use different medications from treatment-to-treatment so they do not become accustomed to the same product. The treatment is for 5 to 7 days and is again followed by 2 days of probiotics.

   The different canker products we use include the following:

   • Flagyl
   • Metronidazole
   • Emtryl (rarely)

   We have never understood why many fanciers treat for canker after the first set of eggs have been laid and the birds are “setting” the eggs. It seems much better to have the birds treated prior to laying the eggs; much better for their health to be pristine prior to laying the eggs. I guess there must be a reason, but no one has ever shared it with us.

3. The final, and perhaps the most critical (at least for us), is treatment for paratyphoid. Our treatment of choice is the Belgica DeWeerd product “Parastop” for 7 to 10 days. There are other similar products, but this is our favorite. The biggest drawback is the expense. This is an expensive product, unless you have only a small numbers of breeders. Again, we follow this treatment with 2 days of probiotics.

Pristine health is a year-around goal. Pristine health is exactly what our birds typically enjoy. We need to ensure the birds are healthy and present them with needed supplements, clean feed, clean grit, clean water and medicines accordingly. The purpose of “The Cure” is to prepare them for breeding. Their health should already be excellent, so this is our insurance policy for producing top quality youngsters and keeping the breeders in great health before, during, and after the breeding season is completed.

In addition to these treatments, and prior to pairing, we also do the following:

1. Handle and evaluate all of the potential breeders.
2. During the evaluation, the hens all receive a calcium tablet. They also receive a calcium tablet when they are paired and when they are separated. Typically the hens lay one round and are separated and rested for a month before their second round.
3. All birds are sprayed for parasites with a solution of Permectrin. This is an extremely effective product. We typically do not have parasites as this spray is used several times each year on each bird.

The birds should be ready to breed following these treatments, provided they were generally healthy prior to starting “The Cure.”

Following “The Cure” and about 2 weeks prior to pairing the birds, the lights are turned on and the birds’ day is extended so they have about 14 hours of light. We also change the feed by decreasing barley and increasing the protein content to a more typical breeder mix.

Come back next month to read my follow-up article: Feeding and Handling the Breeders.